Tag Archives: Paia

The Hana Highway

Posted on by Chris Murray

Map to HanaSo you want to go to Hana.

It’s only 60 miles from Kihei to Hana but a round trip will take all day. Why? The last 40 some miles of the Hana Highway has over 600 curves – many of the hairpin turns – 46 one-way bridges, sometimes a lot of traffic, and many beautiful things to see along the way. Average speed is about 20 mph. That’s why it will take all day.

Tips: leave early (think sunrise) and plan on getting back after dark. (A moonlit night is nice.) Stop at lookouts and waterfalls so the driver can enjoy the trip. Share driving. If you can, spend the night in Hana or at the campground in the national park. Oh yes, if you’re prone to motion sickness, take meclizine before you go.

Ka'anae Peninsula as seen from Kaumahina Park

Ka’anae Peninsula as seen from Kaumahina State Park

The trip to Hana is about the journey, not the destination. The town of Hana is nice enough – you can get lunch there, buy some really expensive gasoline, maybe pick up a souvenir or two – but that’s not why you go to Hana. You go to Hana because of what you see along the way.

Surf off Ke'anae Peninsula

Surf off Ke’anae Peninsula

About halfway between Paia and Hana is Kaumahina State Park. It’s well signed and conspicuous on the mauka (uphill) side of the road. In addition to a fine view of Nua’ailua Bay and the Ka’anae Peninsula, it has some of the only public restrooms before you get to Hana. Two good reasons for a stop.

A side trip onto the peninsula makes a pleasant stop to admire the old stone church, stretch your legs and watch the surf.

Ching's Pool and Bridge

Ching’s Pool and Bridge

Inland from the Ka’anae Peninsula is Ching’s Pool and bridge. Very picturesque and a popular place for daredevils to jump from the bridge. The bridge is much higher than it looks in this picture and they say there are rocks in the vicinity where you might land. Jumping is NOT recommended.

Wailua Falls is a popular stop – not least because it’s right beside the road.

Wailua Falls

Wailua Falls

Past Hana is Koki Beach with a nice view of Alau Island. Once you’ve gone this far a trip to Ohe’o Gulch (aka The Seven Sacred Pools) in the Kipahulu portion of Haleakala National Park is worth the extra few miles. There’s a great hike from here too. See our post Hana – Ohe’o Gulch and the Pipiwai Trail.

Looking seaward from Ohe'o Gulch

Looking seaward from Ohe’o Gulch

Alau Island off Koki Beach Park

Alau Island off Koki Beach Park

For an alternate route to or from Hana see our post Hana – the Road Less Traveled.

Catching a Wave at Ho’okipa

Posted on by Chris Murray

Catching a wave at Ho ‘okipa – Photo by Dick Morgan

Perhaps the most consistent surfing waves on Maui are at Ho’okipa (pronounced Hō ō key pă) on the north shore about two miles east of the Paia stoplight on the Hana Highway. There’s a great overlook with parking at the east end of the bay. The first two photos in this post were taken from that vantage point.

This is a very popular spot for locals. Spectators are fine, but if you don’t know what you’re doing, stay out of the water.

Oops – Photo by Dick Morgan

Sometimes when the surf is down the wind is up. In that case, you’ll miss the surfers but catch the windsurfers. Sometimes you’ll see both. This guy was off to a good start but not a great finish.

Catching air

For perhaps obvious reasons, the surfers and windsurfers tend to stay apart. Whenever we’ve been there the surfers were by the eastern overlook where the big rollers are and the windsurfers farther west. There’s a smaller overlook above the area most popular with the windsurfers. If there’s room, you might get a better view from there.

While you’re in the area, catch a bite to eat at one of the restaurants in Paia. So far our blog has reviewed Cafe Mambo (our favorite for island style pub food) and Mama’s Fish House. Look for other Paia restaurant reviews in the future.

Mama’s Fish House for that Special (or any) Occasion

Posted on by Chris Murray

Got a birthday, anniversary, wedding, graduation, or just the need to treat yourself and friends or loved ones to a great meal in a beautiful setting? Go to Mama’s Fish House. Very pricey, very good; Mama’s is a Maui institution. Unless you order a sandwich (still expensive), expect to pay $50+ per person for lunch and more for dinner. The + is for appetizers, drinks, and desserts. While the word “economical” doesn’t really apply to Mama’s, you could have a very satisfying meal with just appetizers and desserts. Reservations recommended anytime – a must in high season. Mention a special occasion and you just might find an aloha card on your table.

Located on a small beach at 799 Poho Place (1.5 miles east of the stoplight in Paia just off the Hana Highway), the Mama’s Fish House sign (see the picture to the right) is hard to miss. Turn in and turn your car over for free valet parking. Be prepared to stay a while.

One of many exotic floral arrangements

Walk slowly because everything you see from the time you leave your car until you drive away is tastefully done: admire the views, admire the trees, admire the woodwork, admire the floral arrangements. (Admire the restrooms.)  Before you take a bite to eat, admire the presentation of what’s set before you. Of course “tastefully done” uses every sense of the word when applied to food and drinks.

While it’s possible to get something else, Mama’s is known for fish. Even if you normally go for the turf rather than the surf, there’s a fish at Mama’s that just might be the best you’ve ever had. The menu is new every day but there are favorites that are always available. For many of the entrées, the menu tells not only where the fish was caught, but who caught it. The waitstaff is knowledgeable, solicitious and displays just the right amount of friendly.

Kathy and Carol enjoy a libation

If you can, save room for dessert.  We were stuffed, but three of us recently shared a small Liliko’i Crème Brulèe that was amazing. The perfect ending to a splendid meal.

Your wallet will be lighter when you leave, but I predict you won’t be disappointed. It’s not just a meal, it’s a memory.

Cafe Mambo

Posted on by Chris Murray

Paia (pronounced pa-ee-uh) is a fun little town on the north side of Maui – sort of a cross between New Age and Hippie. Very popular with both locals and visitors, Paia has a number of small restaurants and Cafe Mambo is one of our favorites. It’s easy to find – there are only two main streets in Paia. Located at 30 Baldwin Avenue, Cafe Mambo is a short walk from the town’s one and only stop light.

Cafe Mambo (in Paia and now NEW YORK!) boasts “the second best burger on Maui.” To me, their Kalua Pig Burger would be number one anywhere. Kathy loves the fresh fish island burger without the cheese. The fajita plate is huge (and delicious). Nice beer on tap too. We haven’t tried everything, but everything looks great.

Family oriented – including high-chairs for the little ones. Check out the unisex bathroom even if you don’t need it – not another like it in the known universe.

A word to the wise: parking is tricky in Paia. On street parking is a matter of luck. There are two free public parking lots – one as you enter town and another on Baldwin Avenue not far from Cafe Mambo but on the opposite side of the street. Nothing in Paia is far from anything else.

While you’re in Paia, check out the surfers and/or wind surfers at Ho’okipa a few miles down the Hana Highway.