Makena State Park – Pu’u Olai

Pu'u Olai as seen from Charley Young Beach

Pu’u Olai as seen from Charley Young Beach

Pu’u Olai is a 360 foot tall cinder cone in the middle of Makena State Park. A dominant feature on the southwest coast of Maui, Pu’u Olai is visible from almost everywhere in west Maui and as far north as Olowalu on the road to Lahaina. If you want to get to Makena, just drive toward Pu’u Olai.

Big Beach is on the south side of Pu’u Olai; Little Beach on the west side, and Black Sand Beach is to the north.

Numerous trails lead to the summit of Pu’u Olai. It’s a short, but sometimes steep, hike. We took a trail that starts from the road to Black Sand Beach, maybe 50 yards from the parking lot at the end of the road. Most of the trail is entirely exposed, so go in the morning before it gets hot. Take water and enjoy the view. Hiking shoes, tennis shoes, or (at minimum) strap on sandals are recommended. Parts of the trail are composed of loose gravel – not a problem going up, but potentially hazardous coming down.

On a clear day you can see Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea on the Big Island, the uninhabited island of Koho’olawe, Molokini (where the snorkel boats go), Lanai, Molokai, and, of course, Mt Haleakala, the West Maui Mountains, and most of Maui.

Big Beach as seen from Pu'u Olai

Big Beach as seen from Pu’u Olai

View toward Wailea from Pu'u Olai

View toward Wailea from Pu’u Olai

Makena State Park – Little Beach (no pictures please)

Little Beach is located just north of Big Beach

Little Beach is located just north of Big Beach

In case you don’t know, Little Beach is south Maui’s clothing optional beach. While public nudity is illegal in Hawaii, it’s tolerated (at least most of the time) at Little Beach and a few other places on the island. While quiet during the week, according to other posts, Little Beach can get pretty raucous on the weekends – especially Sunday afternoon and evening when there may be hundreds of people on the beach with drum circles, dancing, and various substances consumed.

Little Beach is a small sandy cove located on the west side of the cinder cone that dominates Makena State Park. It’s separated from Big Beach on the south, and Black Sand Beach on the north, by portions of the cinder cone that extend into the ocean. This is not a place that you (or your children) are going to stumble upon by accident.

GETTING THERE

Trail from parking lot to Big Beach

Trail from parking lot to Big Beach

Drive south through Wailea to Big Beach and park in the northernmost parking lot. Take the trail from the parking lot and keep heading north (to your right) when you come to the beach.

The north end of the beach appears blocked off by an ancient lava flow extending out from the cinder cove. On closer inspection, you’ll see a rough trail leading up and over the rock to Little Beach. Shoes or strap on sandals are advised.

Climb over the rock to get to Little Beach

Climb over the rock to get to Little Beach

 

 

 

Little Beach is a primitive beach with no water, restrooms, or lifeguards. There is also little shade on the beach. Take what you need, and don’t forget the sunscreen!

 

Makena State Park – Black Sand Beach

Black Sands Beach

Black Sand Beach

Makena State Park’s biggest and most popular attraction is Big Beach. Less well known, and certainly much less used, is Black Sand Beach, located on the north side of the cinder cone that defines one end of Big Beach.

A tiny parking lot at the end of a very bumpy, but mercifully short, dirt road can hold maybe ten cars. Despite this, as the nearly deserted beach in the picture above suggests, there’s usually plenty of parking space.

In addition to its quiet serenity and unusual color, Black Sand Beach has excellent snorkeling. Find a place where it’s easy to enter the water (there’s one almost directly below the parking lot) and swim out 20 or 30 yards to the coral. Swim as far as you want parallel to the shore and next to the cinder cone. You’ll see lots of fish and coral and maybe turtle or two.

GETTING THERE

Drive south through Wailea toward the big cinder cone that separates Big Beach and Black Sand Beach. With the cinder cone square on your right, look for a dirt road with a white crossbar gate (open during daylight hours). There is usually a Jawz Taco truck parked just beyond the gate on the opposite side of the road (great tacos!). If you get to the entrance to Big Beach, you’ve gone too far.

Entry to Black Sands Beach

Entry to Black Sands Beach

NOTE: Black Sand Beach is a primitive beach. There are no restrooms, water, or lifeguards. If in doubt, don’t go out.

Makena State Park – Big Beach

Pu'u Olai as seen from Charley Young Beach

Pu’u Olai as seen from Charley Young Beach

Makena State Park is a 20 minute drive south of Kihei. It’s most prominent feature, the volcanic cinder cone Pu’u Olai, is visible for miles from almost everywhere in west Maui and up country.

There are three beaches at Makena State Park: Big Beach, Little Beach, and Black Sands Beach. This post is about Big Beach.

Big Beach is well named. It is BIG.

Big Beach looking east

Big Beach is very popular with locals. Probably because of its location and lack of common amenities (showers, dressing rooms, drinking water, and real toilets) there are far fewer tourists at Big Beach than in more developed parts of the island. There are, however, lifeguards, two large parking lots, porta-potties, picnic tables, and (usually) a food truck selling great tacos.

The beach has great sand and sun but a deceptively strong shore break. The water gets deep fast and the surf can be powerful. It’s great for experienced body boarders but not for amateurs. Note and heed the signs: “If in doubt, don’t go out.”

To get there, drive south through Wailea and Makena. Look for signs to “Big Beach” as you pass the Pu’u Olai cinder cone. If the first parking lot is full, there’s a second lot a little farther down the road.

Secret Beach – AKA Makena Cove

Makena Cove

Secret Beach as seen from the west

About a 20 minute drive south from Maui Vista is a small (and not very secret) beach that is a popular site for weddings. While small, it’s never crowded. There are usually lots of turtles off the rocks to the right and left of the beach. Not a great place to swim, but wonderful for relaxing in a beautiful spot. A word to the wise: there are  no facilities at Secret Beach (no water, no showers, not even a porta-potty).

To get there, drive south through Wailea and past the two entrances to Big Beach at Makena State Park. A low lava rock wall starts near the east end of Big Beach. The wall quickly grows in height so you can’t see over it to the presumably lavish residences on the other side. When you see a small break in the wall (see picture below), you have arrived.

Entrance to Secret Beach

Entrance to Secret Beach

Surfing Goats and Ocean Vodka

GoatThe Surfing Goat Dairy and Ocean Vodka Organic Farm and Distillery are more or less next to each other in an out of the way place upcountry off the lower Kula Highway. The Surfing Goat Dairy makes great goat cheese, and the Ocean Vodka Distillery makes a great vodka. Both have tours, although one is more suitable for families with small children and the other for adults. You can probably guess which is which.

Surfing goat signSurfing Goat Dairy has three types of tours: Casual ($8 for kids, $12 for adults), Evening Chores and Milking Tour ($14 for kids and $17 for adults), and Grand Dairy Tours ($28 per person). Check their website (www.surfinggoatdairy.com) for details. We did the casual tour. It might be okay for small children, but $12 for adults is WAY overpriced. You can get close to some cute goats, sample a little cheese, and see their small-scale operation without taking the tour.

A surfing goat

A surfing goat

The Ocean Vodka Organic Farm and Distillery is right around the corner from Surfing Goat Dairy. Their tour is $10 for anyone 12 and over. Adults get a sipping sample and an Ocean Vodka shot glass at the end of the tour. There’s also a tour with lunch that costs $25. See their website (www. oceanvodka.com) for details.

The store at the Ocean Vodka Organic Farm

The store at the Ocean Vodka Organic Farm

Ocean Vodka

GETTING THERE
The easiest way to get to Surfing Goat and Ocean Vodka Distillery is by way of the lower Kula Highway (Highway 37). Look for signs for the Omaopio Road between mileposts 9.5 and 10, head downhill and follow the curvy road until you see signs for Surfing Goat Dairy. Stop there or keep on the road for about a quarter mile until you see the driveway for Ocean Vodka. You can return the way you came or continue downhill. If you do the latter, Omaopio Road soon intersects and becomes Pulehu Road. This is a shorter return trip, but it takes you past the land fill which is briefly stinky. Take your pick.

Wailea Coastal Walk – Ulua Beach to Polo Beach

Wailea Coastal Walk revisedIt’s an easy mile and a half stroll on a paved path from Ulua Beach to Polo Beach. Of course, unless you take two cars, it’s a mile and a half back. At a leisurely pace, it takes about 35 minutes each way without stops.

On the other hand, you probably will stop. The views are beautiful. You’ll see turtles bobbing near the shore. The beaches have great snorkeling, swimming, boogie boarding, and sunning. Wear your swimsuit, take a backpack chair, bring snorkel gear. Make a morning or afternoon of it. Bring water and sunscreen.

The walk starts at Ulua Beach on the pathway in front of the exclusive gated community, Wailea Elua Village. As you walk, you’ll pass most of the major Wailea resorts and several condominium complexes.

Start at Ulua Beach

Beginning of paved walkway

2 Ulua Beach

Ulua Beach (great snorkeling)

3a Approaching the Mariott

Approaching the Mariott

4 Approaching Wailea Beach

Approaching Wailea Beach

5 Wailea Beach

Wailea Beach

6 Wailea Point

Wailea Point

7 Approaching the Fairmont

Approaching the Fairmont Kea Lani

8 Polo Beach

Polo Beach

There are public restrooms and outdoor showers at Ulua Beach. Polo Beach has restrooms, showers, and picnic tables at the public access point.

Maunalei Arboretum and Mahana Ridge Trail

UNFORTUNATELY, CONVENIENT ACCESS TO THIS HIKE IS NO LONGER POSSIBLE. HERE’S THE INITIAL WRITE UP:

This lengthy but mostly shady hike takes you through beautiful and diverse vegetation with occasional spectacular views into the lush West Maui Mountains and out to the blue Pacific and the islands of Lanai and Molokai.

Entering Maunalei Arboretum

Entering Maunalei Arboretum

The first mile of this 6.5 mile hike is uphill – not steep, but always up. The remainder is mainly downhill with short uphill stretches. Parts of the trail may be muddy, so wear appropriate walking/hiking shoes. You’ll be in the shade until the last mile or so where the sun can feel very hot. If it has rained recently, there may be slippery places. Allow 3+ hours. Bring snacks and plenty of water.

View of the watershed

View of the watershed

IMG_1036 IMG_1041

View to the ocean

View to the ocean

IMG_1055 A free shuttle takes you from the Kapalua Resort Adventure Center to the trail head. There is no other way to get there except by hiking the trail backwards, which is not recommended. Call the Adventure Center (808 665-4386) for driving directions, departure times, and to reserve a place on the shuttle. The trail ends at D. T. Fleming Park and beach, a short walk from the Adventure Center where you left your car.

D. T. Fleming Beach

D. T. Fleming Beach

 

See the fish without getting wet – Maui Aquarium

MOC 2

Want to see an amazing collection of tropical fish, but you don’t want to snorkel or scuba dive? Maybe you’ve had enough of the beach and the heat for awhile and you’re looking for something different. Or – heaven forbid – it’s raining and you need an indoor activity. If any of these apply, try the Maui Ocean Center – aka the Maui Aquarium – at Maalaea Bay.

The Maui Ocean Center has a fabulous collection of tropical fish and sea life: octopus, sharks, sea horses, shrimp, coral, turtles, and a rainbow of fish both large and small. It’s easy to find, just take the road to Lahaina and look for the signs. Admission in 2013/14 is $25.50 for adults and $18.50 for children through age 12.

Hammer head shark

Hammer head shark

 

MOC 15

Sea horse

Sea horse

Black tip reef shark

Black tip reef shark

MOC 10

Moray eel

Moray eel

Octopus - note ink

Frightened octopus – note ink

 

West Maui Hiking – The Kapalua Coastal Trail

Kapalua Coastal Trail Map

Kapalua Coastal Trail Map

The Kapalua Coastal Trail is an easy, beautiful walk along the northwest coast of Maui. The trail starts at the public access parking lot for Kapalua Beach and winds a mile and a half along the coast to D. T. Fleming Beach. Both the beginning and end of the trail are paved. In between there are sections of gravel, dirt, and boardwalk. By far the most spectacular part of the trail is the first two-thirds – from Kapalua Beach to Oneloa Beach.

Kapalua Bay

Kapalua Bay

The “trail head,” if you can call it that, is up the short flight of  stairs in the picture to the right. You could take a stroller or wheelchair on this part of the walk.

Alternatively, you can walk along the beach and access the trail later.

Namalu Bay

Namalu Bay

Along the way you’ll see beautiful beaches, rugged coastlines, native plants, lots of turtles, and multi-million dollar homes, condos, and resorts.

The path out to the end of the point (shown in the map above) is well worth the modest extra effort.

Rugged little coves form the west end of Oneloa Bay. Watch closely and you’ll see turtles surface for air and glide through the water below you.

Look for turtles in the coves at the west end of Oneloa Bay

Look for turtles in the coves at the west end of Oneloa Bay

Oneloa Beach

Oneloa Beach

Oneloa Beach is a lovely stretch of sand with good snorkeling. Wear your swim suit and carry some snorkeling gear and a towel.

The trail turns inland at the east end of Oneloa Bay where is meets up with the Lower Honoapiilani Road. Here the “trail” is actually a sidewalk. Not so interesting here. Just past the Ritz-Carlton wedding chapel, the trail becomes a path through the grounds of the resort, finally winding down to D. T. Fleming Beach.

DT Fleming BeachReturn to your car the way you came. It’s just as nice going the other way.

GETTING THERE: Drive north from Lahaina to milepost 29, turn left at the stoplight and head makai (toward the ocean). Turn right at the T-intersection onto Lower Honoapiilani Road. Look for the beach access sign just past the Napili Kai Beach Resort.

For information on other hikes on Maui click here for Hana – Oheo Gulch and the Pipiwai Trail, or Hiking La Parouse Bay, or Haleakala – the Halemaluu Trail, or Haleakala – the Sliding Sands Trail.